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Staying in a masia: a guide to the stone farmhouses of Catalonia

Drive inland from the Catalan coast and you soon see them: big stone farmhouses standing alone among vineyards, olive groves, wheat fields and oak woods, each one surrounded by its own land. This is the masia, the traditional farmstead of Catalonia, and for centuries it was the heart of rural life in the region. A family lived, worked, cooked, stored the harvest and kept its animals under one roof, and the house was passed down from generation to generation.

Many masies still belong to the same families, but farming alone rarely pays for the upkeep of such large buildings. So a great number have opened their doors to guests. In Catalonia this kind of stay is known as turisme rural, and it ranges from a few rooms in a working farmhouse to a whole restored masia rented for a family holiday. This guide explains what makes a masia special, where to find them and how to choose one that suits your trip.

A house built for the land

A masia was never designed as a holiday home. It was built to last, to protect a family and its harvest, and to keep people cool in summer and warm in winter. That practical origin gives it much of its character today.

• Thick stone walls keep the inside cool during the hottest weeks of the year and hold the warmth of a fire in winter.
• Stone arches often frame the entrance or divide the old ground floor, where animals, tools, wine and oil were once kept. In restored houses this is frequently where you find the living room or dining room.
• Wooden beams support the ceilings, sometimes with the old roof tiles visible between them.
• A large kitchen with a hearth was the true centre of the house, where the family ate and gathered on cold evenings.
• Outbuildings such as barns, stables, a threshing floor or a wine cellar are now often converted into separate apartments or shared spaces.

Many masies carry the family's story in their walls: a date carved over the door, a sundial on the facade, a small chapel, an old wine press in the cellar. Traditionally the house and land passed to one heir, known as the hereu, to keep the property whole. When the family still runs the house, ask them about its history. It is often the most memorable part of the stay.

Where to find masies

The masia is Catalan by definition, so Catalonia is the core of this collection. The landscape around the house shapes your holiday as much as the house itself.

• The Empordà, in the north-east, combines rolling farmland and medieval villages with easy access to the Costa Brava.
• Inland Girona includes the volcanic landscape of the Garrotxa and green valleys leading up towards the Pyrenees.
• The Pyrenees foothills offer cooler summers, mountain villages and stone houses built for harder winters.
• The Penedès, west of Barcelona, is wine country and the home of cava, with vineyards right up to the door of many farmhouses.
• The Priorat, inland from Tarragona, is known for its steep terraced vineyards, slate soils and powerful red wines.
• Inland Barcelona province, including the area around the Montseny massif, puts you in the countryside while keeping the city within reach.

Cousins around the world

The masia belongs to a wider family of farmhouse traditions, and if you enjoy one, you may enjoy its relatives. Just across the border, the mas of Provence is its closest cousin, a stone farmhouse among lavender and vines. In southern Italy, the masseria of Puglia is a fortified farm, often surrounded by olive groves. Portugal has the quinta, a country estate that in the Douro valley is usually tied to wine. In Andalusia, the whitewashed cortijo sits in the middle of wide farmland. And in Latin America, Spanish-speaking settlers built estancias and fincas, from cattle ranches on the plains of Argentina and Uruguay to coffee farms in the hills further north. Many of these now welcome guests too. Remember that in the Southern Hemisphere the seasons are reversed, so harvest time and summer heat come at the opposite end of the year.

Eating and drinking like a Catalan farmer

Food is a big reason to choose a masia. Some houses serve breakfast with local produce, some cook dinner for guests, and others give you a well-equipped kitchen and point you towards the nearest market. Look out for pa amb tomàquet, bread rubbed with ripe tomato, olive oil and salt; escalivada, slow-roasted vegetables; grilled botifarra sausage; and crema catalana for dessert. In late winter and early spring, many villages celebrate the calçotada, a feast of grilled spring onions dipped in romesco sauce. Wine is never far away: cava from the Penedès, reds from the Priorat and the Empordà, and small local producers who are happy to show you their cellars.

Days outdoors, and how to handle the heat

Masies are often surrounded by footpaths, farm tracks and quiet country roads, which makes them an excellent base for walking and cycling. Catalonia has well-marked long-distance trails, and old railway lines in the province of Girona have been turned into greenways that are ideal for relaxed cycling with children. Spring and autumn are the best seasons for long days outside, with green fields, wild flowers or the grape harvest.

Summer is a different story. Inland Catalonia can get very hot in July and August, and this is when the thick walls prove their worth. A swimming pool becomes almost essential, so check whether the house has one and whether it is shared with other guests. Plan walks for the early morning, rest during the hottest hours as the locals do, and eat outside late in the evening when the air cools down.

Questions to ask before you book

• Do we rent the whole masia, an apartment within it, or a room in a house shared with other guests or the owners?
• Is the house still part of a working farm, and can guests see or join in with any of the work?
• Is there a pool, when is it open, and is it private or shared?
• How are the rooms kept cool in summer and heated in winter?
• Are breakfast or dinner available, or is the kitchen fully equipped for self-catering?
• How far is the nearest village, shop and restaurant, and is the access road paved?
• Is there a minimum stay in high season, and are children and pets welcome?
• Are there walking or cycling routes starting from the door, and can we borrow or hire bikes?

A few tips from experience

You will almost certainly need a car, as masies stand in open countryside, often at the end of a gravel track. Arrive in daylight the first time. Bring a torch for walking back from the pool at night, because rural lighting is minimal and the stars are bright. Stock up on groceries before you arrive, as village shops may close at lunchtime and on Sunday. And slow down: a masia is not a place for rushing between sights but for long lunches, evening light on old stone and quiet mornings on the terrace.

Browse the masies in this collection

The masies on this page are grouped by continent, country and region, so you can quickly narrow your search to the area you want to explore. Every link takes you to the owner's own website, where you can see the rooms, check availability and book directly. Do you run a masia or a similar farmhouse that welcomes guests? Add your link for free with the button at the top of this page.